Install back wall/splash guard in the kitchen: Instructions
Not every material is suitable for a kitchen backsplash, which is specifically designed to protect behind the stove, hotplates and sink from splashes and dirt. Especially wood, natural stone and thin self-adhesive foils are rather unsuitable. We recommend high-quality plastics such as CERAMIN (no PVC), ESG safety glass or aluminum composite panels. More about the advantages and disadvantages of different materials.
Your way to a new kitchen!
Once you've decided on a material, ask if they can cut the slab you want to size. Small gaps or holes may be less aesthetically relevant. But if grease splatters and other food residues collect in them and you can't get to them, you'll quickly have a permanent bad smell in the kitchen.
With some materials, such as plastics, cutting to size is not a problem for skilled DIYers. With toughened safety glass, however, this is not an option. Moreover, sheets of safety glass cannot be reworked afterwards.
Most kitchen backsplashes offer a wealth of customization options through imprints, for example. Always ask again to be sure, but all reputable suppliers guarantee a UV- and heat-resistant imprint.
Preparation: material and tools
- Kitchen backsplash / splashback
- possibly T-profiles for back wall joints
- Joint filler
- Silicone or acrylic for grouting
Tool incl. own cutting:
- Cleaning agents that are gentle on materials
- Measuring tool
- Jigsaw or hand-held circular saw (for cutting to size)
- Guide rail
- Syringe (cartridge press)
- Drilling machine with circular drill (for connection holes)
- Work trestles (for the back wall)
- Rubber board (for pressing on during gluing)
Preparation: clear, clean and measure
Plates made of plastic, aluminum composite as well as glass (pay attention to the weight) can be applied to various substrates such as plaster or kitchen tiles. Wallpaper is generally not suitable as a substrate and must be removed beforehand.
Then unscrew the wall end strips and support strips and clean the future substrate free of dust and grease. Note: The more uneven the substrate, the more cavities are available for rot and the smaller the contact surface for the kitchen back panel. Empty screw holes do not have to be filled, but can be - tight is tight.
In terms of load-bearing capacity joints on the old tile wall does not matter. The bearing surface is large enough with tiles. However, here later you should pay attention to careful sealing at the edges of the new kitchen backsplash, so that no dirt gets into the joints from the sides.
Sockets and other connections are only unscrewed afterwards, so that the dimensions of the holes provided for them are correct. And before unscrewing, switch off the fuse!
Then it's time to take measurements. Make a precise sketch in which you enter the dimensions. Be sure to pay attention to all bulges and holes, such as under the extractor hood. If the rear wall includes a corner, please take this into account in the measurements and do not calculate from both sides to the corner.
Under the hood
Especially with tiled kitchen walls, you can often see that the tiles do not reach directly under the hood. Not infrequently, between the tiles and the hood is a small area, which, accordingly, a little lower. So that the future kitchen backsplash also finds support at this point, they can stick here, for example, small wooden boards to the wall. Thus, the kitchen backsplash also has a support surface for gluing here. But pay very close attention to the thickness of the wooden panels.
Assembly: cut the kitchen back wall by hand
If you want to cut the plate yourself, place it face up on the work trestles. The protective foils should not be removed for the time being in order to avoid damage even before attachment.
Then you can mark the cutting edge with angle and soft pencil. When the guide rail has been attached to the panel, you can start with a circular saw. When doing so, please always check first whether the cutting blade actually sits on the sketched line. After cutting, sand the edges and test the panel against the wall.
Only when the cut fits, the holes for the connections (sockets, etc.) should be marked with a cross and the necessary diameter. The circle drill is placed exactly on the central point of the cross.
When everything is correct and all the holes are drilled, the protective film on the back can be removed. Protective film on the front side can be removed after the final attachment to the wall.
Now clean the reverse side thoroughly and free of grease. Please ask in advance exactly which cleaning agent is right for your chosen material.
Mounting: Attach to the wall
In theory, kitchen backsplashes made of plastic, aluminum composite and toughened safety glass can simply be glued directly to the substrate without any accessories. But especially with glass, a substructure that is screwed to the substrate is recommended. Take the time and consult a kitchen professional or glazier.
Kitchen backsplashes made of other material can be well set in partition rails (Schlüterschienen). Then the edges are also better protected. But of course, use these rails only for outer edges.
Now you can glue the back of the kitchen backsplash. Glue belongs in all corners and it is recommended to use a continuous gluing pattern so that all areas find an even hold. Especially with safety glass, do not underestimate the weight of the panel and attach it in pairs. Once on the wall, please do not let go immediately, but press on firmly and longer. Almost all good adhesives can still be corrected in the first few minutes, but after about 30 minutes it is usually over.
Now is the time to apply parting rails if necessary or to seal cut edges or gaps in angles with silicone. Use only waterproof silicone.
Depending on the manufacturer's specifications, complete drying can take up to 24 hours. Of course, you do not have to wait that long before even the dismantled sockets and connections can be reattached.
We wish you a good success!